How to Choose Natural Cosmetics: Tips from a Dermatologist

Today, natural and organic cosmetics, as well as products without animal-derived ingredients (for vegans), are trending in the beauty industry, and the market is flooded with all kinds of offers.

How to properly choose natural cosmetics and what should you pay attention to? We discussed this with Elena Zvereva, a dermatologist-cosmetologist and anti-aging medicine specialist.

“In an ideal world, a professional cosmetologist should select the skincare products for your skin. But if you decide to do it yourself, let’s try to understand what is important to consider when choosing cosmetics and what the popular terms really mean. There is some inconsistency at the legislative level in defining these terms, so there are no exact standards or rules,” says Elena Zvereva.

What is natural cosmetics?
Natural cosmetics are those that do not contain chemicals; their composition includes natural plant ingredients, medicinal herbs, vitamins, and trace elements.

It also includes homemade cosmetics made from ingredients purchased at a pharmacy or specialty online stores, as well as food-based cosmetics — masks made from egg whites, vegetables, berries, etc.

“Cosmetics cannot be 100% natural by definition. Besides active ingredients, any cosmetic product contains preservatives, emulsifiers, thickeners, and stabilizers to some degree (all regulated by relevant authorities),” explains the specialist.

For so-called “organic” cosmetics, the raw materials must not only be natural but also grown without agricultural chemicals or harvested in ecologically clean areas. However, ecologically clean places on Earth are becoming fewer every year.

There are also various organizations that assign the “organic” label, and their requirements vary—from the percentage of natural and organic ingredients to prohibited substances, sourcing, storage, and packaging.

“So-called ‘vegan’ cosmetics are no longer just a trend. Manufacturers worldwide have genuinely reconsidered and stopped animal testing and the use of animal-derived products.

However, these cosmetics may still contain synthetic ingredients for preservation or texture consistency,” explains the cosmetologist.

“Of course, it is great if cosmetics contain natural components, especially from ecologically clean areas. But in my opinion, one should not be completely fixated on natural or organic cosmetics. Natural ingredients are not always better than synthetic ones, and not all natural ingredients are equally beneficial, just as synthetic ones are not necessarily harmful. Therefore, a comprehensive approach is better when choosing and evaluating a brand,” says Elena Zvereva.

What should you pay attention to when choosing natural cosmetics?

• Consider what specific product you need. Choose, for example, a cream based on your skin issues: for enlarged pores, pigmentation, etc. Remember: one cream cannot solve all problems.

• Don’t forget protective products. This includes not only SPF but also products that protect against cold, pollution, and so on.

• Pay attention to the product range (cleansers, tonics, masks, serums, creams, finishing serums).

• When reading the packaging, you should recognize familiar and understandable ingredient names: leaf extracts, flowers, extracts, vitamins, and trace elements—not just a list of complex chemical names (though some are acceptable). Also, look for labels indicating organic, natural, or vegan cosmetics.

• Remember that the concentration of active ingredients is listed from highest to lowest (the closer to the end of the list, the lower the concentration).

• Ideally, cosmetics should be fragrance-free and color-free, or have a very subtle and unobtrusive scent. Any fragrance or color means additional chemical compounds.

• Check the expiration date (the longer it is, the more preservatives are likely included).

• Choose cosmetics you can find information about (official website), and learn to “filter” marketing slogans.

• Packaging should be vacuum-sealed or made of dark glass.

• It is better to choose products from one brand: they interact better with each other (besides active ingredients, the bases and preservatives also interact). Also, products from the same brand usually prepare the skin for the sequential absorption of active ingredients, creating a cumulative effect.

“Cosmetics are meant to care for, cleanse well, not harm, moisturize or nourish, protect and create comfort, help prevent or maintain treatment effects, etc.

Your skin should feel comfortable with your cosmetics, have an even tone and texture, and you should not feel the need to hide it under layers of makeup. Never try to conceal the results of injection cosmetology or plastic surgery with cosmetics!

And remember: good cosmetics are never cheap! These are very expensive and complex processes involving entire institutes and laboratories,” adds the cosmetologist.