How to Choose and Why to Take Collagen: Recommendations from a Cosmetologist

Today, the market offers a wide range of drinkable collagen supplements—combinations of amino acids with additional ingredients. Such dietary supplements can be beneficial but may also have side effects; therefore, it’s advisable to consult a specialist before use.

We discussed how and why to take collagen with Elena Zvereva, a cosmetologist, dermatovenerologist, and anti-age medicine specialist.

“Some of these amino acids are produced by the body, and many are obtained from food, so it’s important to determine whether additional intake of these nutrients is truly necessary.

It’s also essential to consider how much your collagen is degraded by sun exposure and the formation of free radicals, as well as your diet, hormonal balance, and genetics,” the specialist recommends.

Collagen is a fibrillar or structural protein that forms the basis of the body’s connective tissue (tendons, bones, cartilage, dermis) and is synthesized by its cells—fibroblasts.

Its synthesis is a complex enzymatic and multi-stage process that requires an adequate supply of vitamins and minerals.

Collagens make up about 1/4 of all proteins and primarily perform a structural function, providing mechanical strength to organs, protecting against environmental influences, and forming supportive reticular structures within cells and membranes, affecting their permeability.

The collagen molecule is a left-handed helix composed of three α-chains, each consisting of amino acid triads. In these triads, the third amino acid is always glycine, the second is proline or lysine, and the first can be any other amino acid except the three mentioned.

Currently, about 28 types of collagen have been described, encoded by more than 40 genes. They differ in amino acid sequence and the degree of modification—intensity of hydroxylation or glycosylation. All play important roles in different parts of our body: some are beneficial for facial skin, others for the body.

To maintain health and beauty, types I, II, and III are the most significant:

• Type I collagen – skin, bone, tendons;

• Type II collagen – cartilage (joints);

• Type III collagen – reticular fibers (supportive tissue in soft organs like the liver, bone marrow, lymphatic system, intestines, etc.).

With age, collagen production slows down. Some estimates suggest that the skin loses 1% of collagen each year starting at age 30, leading to wrinkles and less firm skin. As collagen synthesis sharply declines approaching menopause, spots appear, nails become brittle, hair dries out, joints become less flexible, and the connective tissue between the skin becomes thinner.

We don’t always get enough collagen from food, which is why we resort to taking collagen supplements.

“The most effective collagen for the body is the one synthesized by your own body. Only this collagen is used for the intercellular matrix, connective tissue, and cartilage. Therefore, the best way to replenish your body’s collagen is to provide it with ‘building materials,’ namely peptides and amino acids.

Whether they become part of new collagen depends on hormonal balance, our energy expenditure, sun exposure, and the skin’s need for recovery. Some studies have indeed shown that people who consumed collagen daily for several months had firmer skin, and proline from collagen peptides effectively reached the skin,” says Elena Zvereva.

Which Collagen to Choose: Animal or Marine?

Animal collagen is the most common and accessible type. It’s produced by processing cartilage, joint tissues, and skins of mammals and birds. It’s the most studied and has been used for years in cosmetology and nutrition. This type is the simplest and most affordable among its counterparts.

Marine collagen is derived from fish and other sea creatures. This protein is considered more effective as it is fully absorbed through the intestinal walls upon entering the body. This product breaks down more easily and requires careful storage, which is why its cost may be higher.

Marine collagen and animal-derived collagen are currently the most optimal and promising in terms of absorption and safety for use as dietary supplements.

Which Form of Collagen to Choose: Capsules, Tablets, or Liquid?

Today, manufacturers offer hydrolyzed collagen, and when it comes to dosage forms, whether in capsules, powder, or liquid, it’s the same hydrolyzed powder. Among the various options, each person chooses what suits them best. The main differences lie in convenience, absorption time, and cost.

Recommendations for Intake

Collagen should be taken strictly on an empty stomach, 30–60 minutes before the first meal, or 4 hours after eating (to achieve the correct amino acid ratio).

“Types I and III collagen, and type II collagen should not be taken simultaneously, as the body will receive an incorrect amino acid ratio. For better absorption, it’s recommended to take it with vitamin C, unless it’s already included in the complex. Only in the presence of vitamin C can amino acids bind and properly form collagen fibers,” explains the specialist.

The typical course of intake is 2–3 months with a 3-month break, but this depends on the initial condition of the skin and the goals.

“Also, remember that taking collagen supplements is only part of a comprehensive approach in anti-age medicine.

It’s easier to just start taking something internally, believing in a magic pill (especially with the current flow of information and ease of purchase). It’s harder to eat right, exercise, get enough sleep, avoid alcohol, etc.

The skin is also an organ, and self-medication may not yield the desired results. The best thing you can do is find your doctors (therapist, gynecologist, cosmetologist…) and follow their advice,” says Elena Zvereva.

As an example, the specialist suggested thoroughly examining the composition of the first collagen supplement found online.

Reading the Supplement Label:

• Marine collagen – good

• Vitamin C – good

• Hyaluronic acid – good

• Hydrolyzed – good

• Skin, hair, nails, joints, and bones – questionable

Composition:

Replaceable amino acids:

• Glycine

• Glutamic acid

• Proline

• Hydroxyproline (non-standard amino acid synthesized from proline)

• Alanine

• Arginine

• Aspartic acid

• Serine

• Histidine (conditionally essential)

• Hydroxylysine (synthesized from lysine)

• Tyrosine

Essential amino acids:

• Lysine

• Threonine

• Leucine

• Valine

• Phenylalanine

• Methionine

• Isoleucine

“All existing amino acids are divided into three large groups: replaceable, essential, and conditionally essential. The human body can synthesize the first group on its own; the second group cannot, so it’s important to ensure their rational intake with food.

Specifically for the skin, we need three amino acids: glycine, proline, and lysine. But more doesn’t mean better! I adhere to the same principle when taking vitamins. To achieve results, correct dosages and combinations are necessary; everything else ‘clogs’ our body. Before taking anything internally, you should understand the composition,” says the specialist.